Wednesday, August 13, 2008

Calcutta Street-Food

It might sound like a cliché but I firmly believe that the world is divided into two kinds of people: those who live to eat and the other variety who have more important stuff to attend to, so eating in not a priority. I can't disdain to discuss this latter group in my blog! I, needlessly to clarify, belong to the former bunch even though in the last few years the dare-devilry associated with eating whenever I feel like, whatever I feel like has diminished a little, unfortunately. There are mundane technicalities like watching what you eat, not eating unhealthy food, blah blah blah. At some point, I guess, these details are important just to preserve the body that eats and craves for the food.

And the last few days it has been craving for street-food from Calcutta. By street-food, I don't mean food sold strictly on the street, but mostly the stuff not made at home, at least not regularly. And even if it is made at home, it doesn't really taste the same. There is a deliciously delightful list of food that I have been missing lately. Here it is:
kati roll/egg roll
shingara (samosa, though the shingara from the local mishti-r dokan--sweetmeat shop tastes very different from samosas elsewhere)
phuchka (conceptually similar to the golgappa and panipuri, but taste-wise it is in a league of its own!)
jhhaalmuri
bhelpuri
batatapuri
moghlai porota (typical to Calcutta, an egg or meat-stuffed paratha served with a distinctive alu sabzi-potato curry)
fish fry (bhetki fillet in a special batter)
chop: chicken chop, mutton chop, vegetable chop (I have been told that what I mean by chop is sold as cutlet in other parts of the city; it is basically a bread-crumbed fried snack containing either meat of vegetables)
telebhaja/alur chop/ pe(n)yaji (perfect accompaniments to muri or puffed rice and tea)
biriyani (a Calcutta special with alu, eggs and no curry or raita accompanying this specialty dish; my favorite is from Royal in Chitpur though I'm quite fond of the variety from Arsalaan in Park Circus)

This list is by no means a comprehensive catalog of the roadside culinary concoctions found in Calcutta but merely a glimpse of the stuff I have been missing heavily recently. I should also make a special mention of the Chinese food in Calcutta. It is unlike anything I have eaten anywhere in the country or even in Singapore or the US. I'm sure if it is a product of a large Chinese population in Calcutta or a combination of Bengali and Chinese culinary styles, but it sure tastes great and very different from Chinese food elsewhere.

And of course, I'm missing mishti, Kolkata's biggest export apart from Rabindrasangeet, I guess. I'm missing the syrupy rosher mishti and the dry shondesh and the mishti doi and jileepee. I look forward to eating them all when I'm home in a few months!

Talking about food or writing about it makes me happy (as does cooking and eating it, of course). One of the biggest advantage of living in the Unites States is being able to savor so many different kinds of food from all over the world. I just love the variety and the opportunity to continue to indulge in something that is for me the reason and the source of sustenance of life: FOOD!

6 comments:

Anonymous said...

Great post!!! It makes me want to go to Calcutta and re-live some of my most memorable days in the City of Joy. I love every item on the list. Some of my more favourite ones are:
kati roll/egg roll
phuchka
batatapuri
chop
biriyani

Biriyani without alu is not biriyani. Any other kind of biriyani does not even come anywhere near the taste of the Calcutta biriyani. The secret ingredient, well, I will let it be a secret. Taste the Calcutta Biriyani to guess.

Chinese food is the best in Calcutta. Some of my best childhood friends are Chinese and I mean chinese descending from China and not from Nepal, or the Northeastern part of India. As mentioned in the post, I have also eaten Chinese food in Singapore and United States and even in some other parts of the India, but Calcutta Chinese food is the best. Here I refer to Chinese food as found on the carts in the streets and the ones found in the fancy and not-so-fancy restaurants. Poddar Court or what was previously known as China Para is famous for the Momo, Pao, Chinese Sausages, Roasted Pork, Fish balls, Meat balls and the like. Heavenly; I can almost feel them in my mouth. Unfortunately, the Chinese in Calcutta is reducing and so is the availability of all these food items. China para will never be the same again.

The other world of food is found in the muslim dominated areas. My favourites here are
Dalpuri - puris with dal in them, deep fried till crisp brown... the hotter and oilier, the better.
Tikkia - beef chop/cutlet with special spices
Nahari - a curry of beef trotters
Paya - similar to nahari
Kati roll
Beef Biryani

This comment will become longer than the original post if I add my mishti preferences, so I will just mention I love all of them.

All this talk of food has made me hungry... let me go buy a ticket from JFK to Calcutta. Calcutta Street food here I come.

Unknown said...

just to make you a little jealous, i am going home on mondayyyyyyy. and i am going to have all of them during my 10-DAY STAYYYYYYYYY

Unknown said...

I think 'mishti' is not the biggest export after Rabindra sangeet - the reason is simple - it is not exported enough!!! Hole aaj amra USA te boshe onek mishti petam... you see you have touched my weak spot with this :)

By the way, this is not helpful for pregnancy - I now have a craving for all this food!!!

SJ said...

To "referred to as R": Thanks for adding to the list. I'm sure each one of us have our own list of favorites but some Calcutta specials are the same :)

SJ said...

To Haimanti: Have fun and eat your heart out! I'm coming home in a few months, so I'll just have to wait!!

SJ said...

To Diya: I guess I meant mishti being our biggest export conceptually, not in actual terms. We really don't get any Bangali mishti here in the States, do we?! :(